
\% w: *?** -f: 




Am, /&?;/?. -*- 

THE RAMBLES; 



THROUGH VIRGINIA, TENNESSEE, ALABAMA. 
MISSISSIPPI AND LOUISIANA; 

Describing the Climate, the Manners, Customs and 
Religion, of the Inhabitants. 

IXTEHSPEBSED tflTH 

GEOGRAPHICAL 



AND 



POLITICAL SKETCHES 



BY A CITIZEN OF MARYLAND 



Annapolis: 
PRINTED BY J. GSSESfr 

1828. 



PREFACE. 



WHEN I commenced the prosecution of 
this little work, it was my design to have been 
more minute in the description of those coun- 
tries which I have the pleasure of delineating* 
But upon mature deliberation, I determined to 
omit every thing that might tend to the unneces- 
sary consumption of time. Indeed the subscrip- 
tion price would not have justified a more elabo- 
rate dissertation: and the limited means of the 
author would have deterred him from undertak- 
ing it, had he not procured a certain number of 
subscribers. I have therefore endeavoured to 
pursue a course which may prove measurably 
profitable to some, and entertaining to all. I 
have felt very sensibly the want of a manuscript, 
which would have facilitated my humble labours 
considerably. I had commenced a Journal, but 
not entertaining the smallest idea of ever becom- 
ing a historian, I suffered it to be destroyed. 
The natural inference, therefore is, that errone- 
ous statements may occur; but, however natural 
this. inference, I can assure my readers that no 
error of importance will be detected. Should I 
happen to be wrong, they will confer a favour by 
giving me notice thereof. I have never taken 
&ny pains to acquire any but a familiar style of 
writing, being convinced that it is the most pleas- 
ing- To simplicity I have combined brevity. 
So wide a field does the subject of this work af- 
ford, that it might be made the work of years. 
But as small vessels should keep near the shone, 
I have confined myself to the narrow bounds of a 



IV, PREFACE. 

limited capacity; not presuming to imitate the 
gigantic powers of the literati. It has been my 
endeavour to state plain facts, and am persuaded 
that my readers will make due allowances for the 
deficiencies they may discover. 

To dwell upon the theme which Virginia af- 
fords, would be superfluous; for like the Declara- 
tion of Independence, it forms a subject which 
"has been hackneyed down almost to subterfuge. 
I have therefore confined my remarks principally 
to things more novel, and of course more inte 
resting. I have in the commencement given a 
sort of biographical sketch of the author; not that 
he has wielded his aim with Herculean strength, 
or has made himself conspicuous in any respect: 
but because the transition from immaterial to ma- 
terial objects renders a perusal more agreeable, 
Had he been reared in the school of chivalry, he 
might probably be enabled to swell this book to 
an enormous bulk; but alas! he is nothing more 
than a Schoolmaster. However, like other adept? 
in the art of building castles, he has yet a glim- 
mering hope, that .at some future day he will be 
enrolled with those who can say with Caesar of 
old, "Veni Vidi Vici." 

In conclusion, the Author would tender his 
sincere thanks to his patrons for their liberality, 
and hopes he has merited their approbation. 
And should he ever appear before the public 
again in the character of a writer, he expects to 
give more general satisfaction than this specimen 
can possibly be capable of. 



THE EAMBLSE, 



THE Author was bom on the 22d January, 
1801, in Charles county, Maryland. His pa- 
rents, who were of high standing in society, and 
devoted to the interest of their children in an 
eminent degree, placed him under the tuition of 
the instructors of Charlotte Hall School, which 
is situated in St. Mary's county, near the line of 
demarcation between that and Charles county. 
There he finished his education in the year 1818. 
In 1819 he commenced the duties' of a teacher, 
but at the expiration of that year he became dis- 
satisfied, being of a roving disposition, and re- 
solved to pursue some other occupation ior a live- 
lihood. Accordingly, the next year he took up- 
on himself the management of his father's es- 
tate, (who died on the 10th January 1815.) He 
continued in this capacity for two years; after 
which time he resolved to seek his fortune in 
some other occupation. He therefore betook 
himself to Baltimore, hoping to obtain employ- 
ment: but after remaining th^'e for some time, 
and failing in his wishes fl e proceeded to Leo- 
nard-Town, in S' Gary's county, where he was 
employed a** teacher, and received the appoint- 
ment r^ Justice of the Peace. He remained here 
to* two years, during which time he experienced 
the first shock of the vicissitudes incident to this 
life, although he met with a hospitable reception 
from the inhabitants. At length he came to the 
conclusion, that the little state of Maryland 



G THE UAMBLKH, 

would not afford a sufficient field for his wild and 
romantic views. He concluded to explore the 
country beyond the Allegany mountains. All 
things being in readiness, he left the old domi- 
cile for the vast and fertile regions of the South 
and West, on the 20th July 1825. Having cross- 
ed the Potomac river and landed at Dumfries, a 
respectable and hospitable village in Virginia, si- 
tuated at the head of a creek which empties into 
the Potomac, about 30 miles below Alexandria, 
D. C. I proceeded to Warrington, the county 
seat of Fauquier, about 40 miles from Dumfries, 
and remained in the neighbourhood for some 
weeks, enjoying all the hospitality which is cha- 
racteristic, particularly of this part of Virginia. 
During my stay there, I visited daily a sulphur 
spring in Culpepper county, a few miles from 
Warrington, and received infinite benefit there- 
from. This water is strongly impregnated, and 
well calculated for persons of billious habits. It 
is disagreeable at first, but a few glasses will ere- 
ate a fondness for it 5 and the more you drink the 
more you want. The surrounding country here 
is mostly barren, though there are some fine spe- 
cimens of agricultural skill. One who is not pro- 
ficient in tfv« art of improving lands, would sup- 
pose, that in a n-ountainous country like this, 
they would not be su reDt ible of improvement. 
Yet the reverse is obviously w ne# By me ans of 
clover and plaister, which are admw>bly adapted 
to the soil, the face of nature presents to tii* ev e f 
the traveller a romantic and luxuriant prosper 
There are many interesting scenes in this coun- 
try, among which is a pile or mountain of rocks, 
impending the road, at least 150 feet perpendicu^ 
lar height, which seem to threaten inevitable de- 



THE RAMBLER. 7 

struction to the passenger. And the* sublimity 
of the scene was increased by a torrent of limpid 
water rushing from the mountain. This tempta- 
tion was irresistible to one wearied with fatigue 
and thirst; I accordingly dismounted, and regaled 
myself with the cooling draught, and could not 
forbear exclaiming, ''How wonderous are thy 
works O Omnipotent God." This interesting 
scene is in Fauquier county, near an inland village 
called Haymarket. About the middle of August 
1825, I left very reluctantly this hospitable 
country, and proceeded to Culpepper court- 
house, where I tarried a short time, and was much 
amused at the groups of young and old men. who 
carried the bloom of health upon their faces, ban- 
tering each other about their poneys and sweet- 
hearts, which as I am told the Virginians were 
ever wont to do, nay indeed have a right, for no 
people perhaps can boast of finer horses and more 
interesting lasses, than they. Thence I proceed- 
ed to Bottecourt Springs, passing through many 
little towns, and a very interesting country. The 
water here is more strongly impregnated with 
sulphur than perhaps any in the United States. 
And it is a singular fact, that there are two streams 
only a few feet distant from each other, one of 
which issues sulphureous water of the strongest 
kind, and the other pure and pleasant limestone. 
So that the weary traveller finds at once a re- 
storative to health, and a luxurious remedy for 
thirst. In addition to these rich effusions of kind 
nature, art has made herself conspicuous; for the 
indefatigable owner has manifested his disposition 
to please by providing every thing calculated to 
produce comfort and ease. These springs are 
.situated in the county w T hose name they 5 bear ? a 



& THE RAMBLER. 

few miles from the valley road, upon a considera- 
ble eminence, which affords a romantic spectacle. 
I continued my journey from thence to Char- 
lottesville, the capital of Albemarle county. This 
city is near a small branch of James river, and 
has many lasting monuments of the enterprising 
spirit of its illustrious founder, Thomas Jefferson, 
among which is the University of Virginia, a very 
splendid building, from which the observer has a 
full view of Monticello, the residence of the vene- 
rable patriarch, who is now no more. 

In viewing this scene, and contemplating the 
inevitable dissolution, 'ere long, of the great pro- 
jector of its improvements, the emphatic words 
of Solomon occurred to my mind — "All is vanity 
and vexation of spirit. " And on the 4th of July 
following, these words were verified, both in the 
death of Mr. Jefferson, and Mr. Adams, whose 
decease served to render that memorable day, in- 
finitely more so; they being two of those illustri- 
ous freemen who dared to abjure allegiance to 
the imperious crown of Britain. And our hap- 
py country is now enjoying the rich fruits of the 
benign influence of their patriotic zeal, and in- 
flexible adherence to the innate principles of 
liberty and independence. And while the voice 
of these martyrs, with Washington at their head, 
is heard and revered, the bright ornaments of re- 
publicanism, of which they were the principal ar- 
chitects, will stand impregnable to the vassals who 
ignominiously bend to the absolute will of crown- 
ed heads. And may the God of battles avert the 
danger which is now impending from the great 
question of electing a President. The nation is 
upon a pivot whose deviation from the centre? I 
fear will involve her in difficulties which will 



THE RAMBLER. 9 

transcend the skill of chieftains to remedy. So 
far from saying that opposition in republican go- 
vernment is improper, I believe it has the most 
salutary eifect. . But I affirm boldly and fearless- 
ly, that the violence of the present opposition, is 
Jacobinical, treasonable, and if successful, will 
subvert both the spirit and the letter of our con- 
stitution, at some future day. It therefore be- 
hoves those who would preserve it in its original 
purity, to repel the invasions of /'would be rul- 
ers/' not b^ the force of arms, but by a deter- 
mined ana resolute adherence to the noble exam- 
ple of our forefathers; that the gray hairs of their 
descendants may not go . down in sorrow to the 
grave. 

Thence we proceeded to Abingdon, near the 
Tennessee line. The journey was extremely in- 
teresting, particularly as we passed the main bo- 
dy of the Blue Ridge, which divides east from 
west Virginia. Upon reaching the summit of the 
mountain which, as well as I recollect, was four 
miles from the base, a new world, as it were, 
presented itself to the view. The vast expanse 
below was thickly covered with trees, which, 
with the fog ascending, forms in similitude a 
boundless ocean. This pass through the moun- 
tain is called by the inhabitants Rockiish Gap. 
We found water very scarce until we had gained 
the summit, but there we were amply repaid by 
a profusion of the most delicious water, and the 
most refreshing breezes. The climate, after pass- 
ing this mountain, is altogether different from that 
on the east side. For on that side we found lit- 
tle comfort in sleeping without covering, but on 
this side, although in the heat of summer, a cou- 
ple of blankets were quite comfortable. And 



10 THE RAMBLEK, 

thus it continued until we passed the Cumberland 
mountains. Before we left these mountains, we 
passed through a village by the name of Waynes- 
borough, inhabited principally by Dutch settlers. 
The salubrity of the climate, added to their sim- 
ple mode of living, render them remarkably 
healty and athletic. I inquired of an old Dutch- 
man concerning the health of the place; his an- 
swer was, that he was then 70 years of age, and 
had never experienced a day's sickness. This 
assertion, I am disposed to believe, Sfom the old 
man's appearance, for although his head was sil- 
vered o'er with age, he continued to look as vi- 
gorous as one in the prime of life. It is amusing 
to observe the Dutch lasses mowing and securing 
hay. The old folks lead the van, and the young 
ones follow their file leaders, all with their long 
pipes in their mouths. If there is any real hap- 
piness in this life, surely they enjoy it; for their 
remoteness from the scenes of bustle and dissipa- 
tion, pomp and parade, render them impervious 
to the allurements of vice. They have no ne- 
groes, and hold slavery in utter abhorence; so 
much so, that traders passing through the coun- 
try can with difficulty procure accommodations, 
even for double pay. The religion of the inha- 
bitants of this, as well as all west Virginia, is af- 
ter the order, principally of Methodists, Bap- 
tists, Tunkers, &c. In East Virginia, Protestants, 
Romanists, and Presbyterians are found. Poli- 
tics they neither know or care any thing about. 
Abingdon is a very flourishing town, erected up- 
on a hill, and affords a very cheap market for the 
surrounding country. Although there is no com- 
munication with the eastern cities, except by 
land, which is a journey of 400 miles to the near- 



THE RAMBLER. 11 

est point, Baltimore, goods of every description 
may be bought at the retail prices of the same. ' 
The population of this place is about 1200. Be- 
ing now near the Tennessee line we presently 
crossed it, and pursued our journey through the 
wilderness, not a little annoyed at night by the 
howling of wild beasts, which are very numerous, 
consisting of wolves, panthers, bears, deer, &c. 
The sight of a candle, or the blaze of a fire, pro- 
duces the greatest consternation among these in- 
habitants of the western wilds. Though a glim- 
mering light does not produce the same conse- 
quence. They at any rate venture after a while, 
to peep, in order to see what wonders man is ca- 
pable of working. Sometimes their curiosity in- 
duces them to approach too near, and are there- 
by taken by the artful huntsman. The bear is 
so destructive to corn, that settlers, who are very 
few, can scarcely secure a sufficiency for family 
consumption, without the utmost vigilance. The 
wolf is equally destructive to sheep, and other 
domestic animals. Deer, which is the principal 
food of these lonely inhabitants, is both whole- 
some and palatable, particularly when young. 
Wild Turkeys are very abundant here, which I 
think are not inferior to domestic ones as to fla- 
vour. The next place of importance through 
which we passed, was Knoxville, in East Tennes- 
see, situated on the Holston, near its junction with 
French Broad River. It is upon an eminence, 
and yet owing to the continued succession of 
mountains, you find yourself in the midst of the 
town, as it were, before you see it. It is said to 
he very healthy. Population about 2000. It 
contains a church for all denominations nearly, 
except Romanists, Presbyterians and Baptists 



12 THE RAMBLER. 

are much the more numerous.. There is a seel 
of christians who call themselves Cumberland 
Presbyterians, who are between Presbyterians 
and Methodists, for they resemble in some in- 
stances both these denominations, but differ from 
both in others. They derive their name proba- 
bly from the Cumberland mountains which they 
inhabit, and. their disciples are very numerous in 
Alabama, and other places contiguous to them. 
The descent from this to Alabama is most asto- 
nishing. The imagination is led from the con- 
templation of innumerable and stupendous moun- 
tains and cataracts, to that of an immeasurable 
plain, embellished with all the varieties of na- 
ture. The contrast is so great that upon arriv- 
ing in Alabama, a retrospective view presents an 
upper and a lower world, between which, to all 
appearance, there is no possible communication. 
This appearance continues until the view is ob- 
structed by the Atlantic, which severs this from 
the old world. In this country republicanism is 
manifested in every sense of the word. One had 
as well attempt to buffet the Falls of Niagara as 
to resist the will of the people; so tenacious are 
they of their rights; and if they knew how to 
temper it, would be productive of the most salu- 
tary effects. But alas! the fallibility of man leads 
him to undervalue immediate blessings, when 
there is a prospect of attaining a greater. 

The Tennesseeans value themselves much in 
the art of shooting, and very deservedly too. 
They frequently assemble with their rifles in or- 
der to amuse themselves at their favourite sport. 
Sometimes they challenge the Kentuckians, who 
are not inferior to them, for a combat. And the 
conquerors exult as much in a victory of this 



THE B AMBLER J 13 

kind, as ever General Jackson did, when he 
routed the Indians. They are remarkably plain 
and hospitable to strangers, sparing no pains to 
make them comfortable, and on the most moderate 
terms. They are generally illiterate, but possess 
uncommon susceptibility. Much to the credit 
of the state, they are making great improve- 
ments in literature, there being several literary 
institutions of respectability. They are admira- 
bly calculated {or soldiers, having been inured 
to hardships, and nourished in the bosom of re- 
publicanism. Their politics are of course at va- 
riance with those of the more northern states, the 
one being agricultural, and the other commer- 
cial. 

We stopped at Winchester in Franklin county, 
which is about 60 miles from Huntsille, Alabama. 
There is a court-house, a church, and a respecta- 
ble literary institution in this place. Population 
about 300. The Jackson fever prevails here with 
great violence, and is peculiarly obnoxious to 
strangers. They have no idea of oak, but rally 
around the hickory tree. I observed that "al- 
though hickory makes the best fire, yet oak was 
the monarch of the woods, and combined many 
good qualities.' 5 This expression raised the Irish 
blood of a huge waggoner, to such a degree, that 
I was glad to take shelter under a lock and key. 
This independent spirit I admire in the Tennes- 
seeans, as I am fully persuaded that it proceeds 
from an ardent devotion to the hero of Orleans; 
for not being used to great men, they naturally 
conclude that he is the greatest of men. What 
greater exploits could any man boast of, say they, 
than saving a great city, and that too, by cotton 
bales? Who but Jackson would have thought of 



14 THE RAMBLER." 

such a thing? These and the like queries de- 
monstrate their infatuation. It is far from my 
intention to derogate from the General's merits, 
for it is well known that he has gained imperish- 
able laurels. But I am only stating plain facts, 
which I stand pledged to do in my preface to this 
work. And if my Jackson friends impute my 
motives to prejudice or aversion to him who so 
gloriously fought and bled for his country, and 
whose dread name causes proud Britain to quake 
with fear, I would inform them that they are 
much mistaken. I adore his bravery and repub- 
lican independence, and sincerely hope he may 
receive the reward which awaits the brave and 
the generous. But allow me to say that these are 
riot all the qualifications requisite for the Presi- 
dent of a great and enlightened nation. No, the 
lasting foundation of a government depends upon 
sagacious and experimental views of what has 
been done, and may be done to render the de- 
signed object of long duration. The momenta- 
ry effusions of patriotic zeal, are not calculated 
to place the destinies of a nation upon a firm 
"basis; but on the contrary, calm, deliberate and 
dispassionate penetration, into the effects that 
might be produced by the plan proposed. The 
reverse of this, mostly proves in the words of 
Cato, "the wreck of matter, and the crush of 
worlds." Winchester is in the midst of a very 
fertile and healthful country, producing cotton, 
tobacco, corn, &c. But the former is the staple. 
All of these commodities grow to the greatest 
perfection. Peaches, from which large quanti- 
ties of brandy are distilled, are remarkably fine 
and abundant. The inhabitants are very hospita- 
ble. Before I take leave of Tennessee, it will 



THE RAMBLER. 15 

\e satisfactory to say something about the Ten- 
nessee river. It seems to flow from every point 
of the compass, owing to the meandering course 
it pursues. I crossed it five times in travelling 
from Knoxville to Florence, which is not 200 
miles. This, of course, must make the naviga- 
tion very tedious, particularly as it is navigable 
only for keel or flat boats, to the Muscle Shoals* 
After passing them, it is navigable for steam-boats 
to its junction with the Ohio. Fish are very a- 
bundant, such as trouts, catfish, bullfish, and 
others. This being fresh water, there are no 
oysters or crabs. It is said to be very unhealthy 
immediately on the river, owing to the disagree- 
able smell of the waters, and to very dense and 
heavy fogs, which at night and morning obstruct 
the faculty of breathing very materially. Hence 
the billious tendency of the climate. 

Having arrived at Huntsville in Alabama, abou€ 
the first of September, which is considered the 
most sickly season, and having been informed by 
the credulous yeomen that it was certain death to 
enter it that season, I could not divest myself of 
timidity for a short time. A few miles from town 
I met several families who were moving, and this 
served to increase my fears, supposing that they 
were driven by the fever. But I soon found that 
I had been misinformed; health and beauty seem- 
ed to be depicted not only on the fair, but on eve- 
ry thing else. Huntsville is a very flourishing 
inland town, situated 9 miles from Tennessee ri- 
ver, and about 30 miles from the Tennessee line. 
It is by far the most healthy city in the state; and 
possesses every advantage which the most fertile 
country, and the most central location could ad- 
mit, It affords a market not only to its more im- 



1G THE RAMBLE, 

mediate neighbours, but to a considerable por 
tion of East Tennessee. It is built upon a square, 
the streets cutting each other at right angles. In 
the centre is a space of probably half a square 
acre of ground, upon which the court-house, 
market, and other public buildings stand; and 
this space is surrounded by buildings not inferior 
to those of the eastern cities. In this centre is 
concentrated the principal business of the place. 
It shows evident marks of enterprise and wealth; 
and only lacks facility of navigation, to make it 
equal to any in the southern country. Popula- 
tion about 3000. There is a respectable semi- 
nary in the suburbs, very pleasantly situated. It 
contains also three churches. One great acqui- 
sition to the health of the city which few of the 
southern cities possess, is a spring at least 20 
yards in circumference, and navigable for keel 
boats. It is pure limestone water, issuing from a 
rock by several avenues. The base of this con- 
cretion of rocks is about 60 feet perpendicularly 
below the level of the city. And from the spring, 
water is conveyed by aqueducts to most of the 
houses, where it ascends in hydrants, and unless 
disposed to walk, the inhabitants have no more 
trouble in getting water than to hold a vessel 
through a window and draw the quantity desired. 
This spring, it is supposed, will afford a sufficient 
quantity of water for a canal. The enterprising 
citizens, therefore, had it in contemplation to cut 
one from thence to the Tennessee river, which 
would facilitate the water communication won- 
derfully. Huntsville was once the metropolis of 
the state, afterwards Cahawba, and in 1825 Tus- 
caloosa was made the seat of government. It is 
highly probable that Tuscumbia will be chosea 



THE RAMBLER- If 

for that purpose at no distant period. Alabama 
is almost exclusively settled by emigrants from 
Virginia. The form of government is very ana- 
logous to that of Maryland. Presbyterians, Me- 
thodists and Baptists, are the principal religion- 
ists. Slaves are very numerous, exceeding the 
white population in a proportion of probably hvt 
to one. This renders the most rigid discipline 
necessary for the protection of the country. Cot- 
ton, which is the staple, grows to great perfecti- 
on. Vegetables of every description are scarce, 
except potatoes, owing either to the soil or to ne- 
glect; the latter is most probable. I am here 
speaking of what is called North Alabama, as it 
is very different from South. Athens, about 25 
miles from Huntsville, is a healthy place, con- 
taining about 300 inhabitants. It is the me- 
tropolis of Limestone county. Courtland, 20 
miles from Athens, is a flourishing little place, 
but said to be unhealthy. The surrounding coun- 
try is very fertile. I proceeded next to Tuscum- 
bia in Franklin county, about 60 miles from Hunts* 
ville, and a few miles below the Muscle Shoals 
in Tennessee river. It was first settled by the 
Indians, and derived its name therefrom. It was 
formerly known by the name of "Big Spring," 
from the immense size of the spring, which is 
equal, if not superior, to that at Huntsville. Tus- 
cumbia although surrounded by rivals, is rising 
above them by rapid paces. It is on the north 
side of Tennessee river, and Florence on the 
south, four miles distant. Florence is the only 
barrier to her gaining a rank among populous and 
wealthy cities at no distant period. They are 
both beautifully situated in sight of each other* 
Florence has the advantage in age ; and conse- 



18 THE RAMBLER, 

quently has more improvements, but it being ou 
the south side of the river, the stench of the wa- 
ter is conveyed by the winds, which renders it 
obnoxious to malignant fevers at certain seasons. 
The competition is very great between the two 
aspirants, and must terminate in the preponde- 
rance of one, and the former being favoured with 
health, will most probably be the one. The 
population of each is about twelve hundred. 
These towns form the principal depot of north 
Alabama. Cotton is conveyed from thence to 
the head of steam boat navigation in flats and 
keel boats, which is 30 miles. It is then con- 
veyed to New Orleans in steam boats. Those 
who are unwilling to incur the expense of freight* 
carry their produce the whole route (1500 miles) 
In flat boats; for such is the rapidity of the cur- 
rent in some places, that they will float from 9 to 
10 miles an hour. Indians are numerous in this 
region, and enhance the trade of Tuscumbia ve- 
ry much. They furnish the inhabitants with 
deer,' turkeys, &c. for which they receive goods. 
Some of them are monied men; these of course 
are very desirable customers, as they will have 
nothing but specie; whereas the money of the 
State consists mostly of corporation notes of from 
1 cent, to 5 and 10 dollars; as every merchant of 
standing has the privilege of issuing notes. Some 
of these Indians are intelligent men, and seem to 
have a control over their savage propensities; 
hut the great mass of them are depraved and 
worthless. Drunkenness and thieving are very 
predominant, and yet they are perfectly good 
natured. They will sell the last blanket for a 
bottle of rum, if it cannot be obtained other- 
wist. Their ^etiquejLfee -in drinking is amusing? 



THE RAMBLER. 19 

men, women and children seat themselves on the 
ground in a circle, in the centre of which is 
placed the bottle, and the eldest first takes a pull, 
and with joy sparking in his eyes, he exclaims, 
"Chicama fena!" that is "very good!" He then 
hands it to his left hand neighbour, who also 
twiggs it, and so it continues until they have all 
tivigged. The Sage then fills his pipe with the 
dried leaves of a shrub called sumac, takes a 
whiff and passes it around. The bottle and pipe 
being handed around twice or thrice alternately, 
they begin to hear "Ned" thumping at the up- 
per story windows! This rouses them, and they 
give a tremendous shout, and commence the sa- 
vage dance, with hands locked together. They 
continue this until they are exhausted; they then 
sock Ned once more, and afterwards commence 
socking each other most manfully. In these re- 
velling dances I could not distinctly hear any 
particular word of the song, except a repe- 
tition of he! he! he! he! in a tone resembling that 
of a beehive, but tremendously loud. The ut- 
most vigilance is requisite to keep them from pil- 
fering when they enter a store, for they possess 
great dexterity in that art. The clothing of the 
men consists entirely of a bandage around their 
waists, mockasins, and sometimes blankets. The 
women wrap a blanket around the shoulders in 
such a manner as to form a bag behind, in which 
they carry their infants, making an appearance 
resembling that of one with two heads. As it re- 
spects their religion, they believe in rewards and 
punishments, of course a Supreme Being. They 
say "a good Indian goes to a fine hunting ground 
when he dies, but a bad one goes down yonder," 
meaning no doubt -some place of punishment, 



20 THE RAMBLER. 

Some of them own slaves and cultivate the soil 
upon a large scale. Those negroes who have liv- 
ed with them are unwilling to change their situ- 
ations: of course they receive humane treatment. 

The climate of Alabama would be healthy, I 
believe, were it not for local causes of disease. 
There are not many swamps, but an infinite num- 
ber of prairies, formed by the irregularity of the 
earth s surface. Although it is far from being a 
mountainous country, it resembles the waves of 
the sea in form. The prairies, or vacant ground, 
formed thereby, are filled in the winter or rainy 
season, with water, which frequently render the 
whole country impassible, without great danger 
of being drowned. This water absorbs gradual- 
ly as warm weather approaches, and leaves an 
insupportable smell, which infects the whole sur- 
rounding atmosphere, and hence proceed fevers 
of the most violent nature. I could not perceive 
any natural difference between the degrees of 
heat here, and that of Maryland, but the long 
continuation of summer makes the difference. 
Some winters are very cold, others very mild. 
The timber consists of oak, hickory, &c. of pro- 
digious size. The sugar maple is also very abun- 
dant, from which a considerable quantity of in- 
ferior sugar is made. The first step towards mak- 
ing this sugar is to cut through the sap with an 
axe, and then place a trough to catch the juice 
which runs from it. This juice is boiled down 
to a consistency of sugar. 

With regard to the politics of this state, none 
of its sisters can boast of a more republican sys- 
tem of government. Every officer, from the le- 
gislator down to the constable, is elected by the 
immediate voice of the people. And we, of the 



THE RAMBLER. 21 

middle states, cannot, dare not behold the repub- 
lican purity of our brethren of the south with- 
out a blush. There liberty glows with meridian 
splendor. There the paltry distinctions between 
parties are not recognized, but all are free to act 
and to speak without incurring the invidious epi- 
thet of "apostate," merely because one is open 
to conviction, and resolves to amend his ways. 
Whereas our demagogues preach eternally about 
the rights of freemen, holding them forth, very 
plausibly, as immaculate; and at the same time 
are indirectly and vaingloriously exterminating 
them by actions inconsistent with their profes- 
sions. The true spirit of "seventy-six" is enve- 
loped in the smoke of modern republicanism; that 
is to say, jacobinism alias caucussing. Pardon me, 
fellow citizens, for these sentiments proceed not 
from prejudice, but from an anxious solicitude for 
the prosperity of that country which I proudly 
say gave me birth; and for the defence of which 
I pledge my life and all that is dear to me, when 
it becomes necessary. 

On the 1st February 1826, we left Tuscum- 
bia, and proceeded down the Tennessee in a 
steam boat. The bottom of this river is a con- 
tinued mass of limestone, as are also the banks on 
either side, which form a complete rampart. 
Were it navigable for vessels of war, these stone 
walls, formed by nature, would prove an insupe- 
rable barrier to their passage either down or up, 
with a little art, particularly as the river is so 
narrow in some places as scarcely to admit the 
passage of two vessels at once; and thus it con- 
tinues to its junction with the Ohio. The Ohio 
is a most beautiful river, affording a great abun- 
dance oi such fish as are found in- the Tennessee, 



&& THE RAMBLE*, 

But the water rises and falls frequently once in 
three or four weeks, so that the navigation is ve- 
ry uncertain. It pursues a more direct course 
than the Tennessee, and empties into the Missis- 
sippi. The course of the Mississippi is so wind- 
ing that it resembles the pipe of a distillery more 
than any thing else. The distance from the Mus- 
cle Shoals to New Orleans by land, is about 400 
miles, by water it is upwards of 1500 miles. 
There is a place in this river which is so circui- 
tous that by water it is 60 miles, and the neck of 
land between is not more than one mile. New 
Madrid, a small village, is situated not far from 
this bend, immediately on the banks of the river. 
This place is famed in the western country for 
its liability to earthquakes. Shocks are frequent- 
ly felt, but with no other damage, as yet, than 
the falling in of earth. It is to be feared that in 
some of those convulsions of subterraneous mat- 
ter, the village will be consigned to a watery 
grave. It is admirably situated for the commerce 
of the upper country, and labours under no other 
disadvantage than the one above mentioned. 

After a passage of 15 days, and touching upon 
the coasts of Mississippi, Ohio, Illinois, Arkan- 
sas and Kentucky, all of which are bounded part- 
ly by the Mississippi, we arrived at Natchez, the 
largest town in Mississippi state. This city is 
situated on the left bank descending the Missis- 
sippi river, in 31° 33' north latitude, and 300 
miles above New Orleans. It contains a court- 
house, a Catholic church, a Presbyterian meet- 
ing house, a market, &c. and about 3000 inhabi- 
tants. It is the most beautiful city of its size 
probably in America, and in the centre of the 
most ferule countrv in the world. Its commerce 



TflE RAMBLER. 23 

is very considerable. Washington, which was 
once the seat of government, is on St. Catharine's 
creek, about 6 miles east of Natchez, containing 
1000 inhabitants. Monticello the metropolis of 
the state, stands on Pearl river, 90 miles east of 
Natchez, in north latitude 31° 33', and 13° west 
longitude from Washington. The citizens of 
Natchez and Washington are peculiarly hospita- 
ble. It seems to be their chief delight to enter- 
tain strangers, and the greatest harmony and so- 
cial intercourse exists among them. At Wash- 
ington there is a very respectable female semina- 
ry, superintended by the Rev. Mr. Burriss. 
Trom February until June, which is the time of 
high water in the Mississippi, it affords great 
amusement at Natchez to see the innumerable 
steam boats, flat boats and keel boats, plying be- 
fore the almost irresistible current of the river. 
The whole country seems to be afloat. Trees of 
prodigious size, and infinite in number, are seen 
floating down, which sometimes prove fatal to 
boats. And to cap the climax, crows, buzzards 
and cranes, take their stand upon these floating 
logs, and move in the most majestic style, with 
their heads erect, and with all the pomp of a fleet 
In battle array. I cannot conceive why they at- 
tach themselves to the logs, except that they take 
a pride in imitating man; for there can be nothing 
in these logs for them to prey upon except insects, 
which we all know are beneath their notice. They 
3 suppose, like other great folks, are fond of ease, 
and like to inhale the pleasant breezes of the Mis- 
sissippi, without the trouble of flying. Natchez 
being on an eminence affords a very sublime view 
of the surrounding country. Its prominent situ- 
ation, like that of men in power, most proba- 



£4 THE RAMBLED 

bly proves destructive to it in point of health.. 
For here the south winds, which are common, con- 
centrate all the obnoxious effluvia of the neigh- 
bouring bogs and marshes and produce a train of 
diseases which at cei tain seasons render the city 
uninhabitable without imminent danger, particu- 
larly emigrants. Sugar, cotton and rice, are the 
principal commodities for exportation, and that of 
the best quality. Some indigo is also made. Some 
parts of Mississippi state are remarkably healthy, 
but local causes render it generally unhealthy to 
emigrants for the first two years after arriving 
there. After undergoing what is called "a sea- 
soning," one is as safe there as in any other place. 
The most barren parts of the state are most heal- 
thy, and the most fertile parts the most sickly; so 
that health and poverty seem to be identified, and 
wealth and disease inseparable. The pine woods 
(so called,) are a very safe and pleasant summer 
retreat, as they afford excellent spring water, fish 
in the greatest abundance, deer and wild turkeys. 
These bounteous gifts of the God of Nature, are 
converted into means of recreation to those who 
are fond of hunting, fishing, &c. The laws of 
this state are truly republican. All religious sects 
are found; but Presbyterians and Methodists are 
predominant. There are some Indians of dif- 
ferent tribes. 

I continued my journey from Natchez to A- 
lexandria, which is situated on either side of 
Red river, 150 miles from its junction with the 
Mississippi, in Rapide Parish, Louisiana, con- 
taining a court-house, a bank, an academy, &c. 
It is the principal 4epot of the parish. It was 
once renowned for chivalry, but as native Ameri- 
cans have gained the ascendancy, it has wrought 



THE RAMBLEIU 25 

a material change. The citizens are not excelled 
by any in politeness. As the French are very 
numerous, and have always excelled in polite- 
ness, their manners and customs are adopted here, 
and every other place in the state. This part of 
Louisiana possesses greater facilities in naviga- 
tion than is generally supposed; for Red river 
and its little tributaries alone, are great conveni- 
ences. Independent of this, the numerous bay- 
ous, or fresh water creeks, which are now not 
navigable, may with some little expense and la- 
bour be rendered navigable for barges. This 
improvement might be made by clearing the tim- 
ber, which alone obstructs the navigation. Each 
planter would then have a landing place at his 
door, for the principal settlements are upon the 
bayous. Bayou Robert, about 18 miles from A- 
lexandria, and Bayou BeofF 8 miles farther, are 
admirably calculated for this purpose. The wa- 
ter flows from them into Red river, which is al- 
ways navigable for small steam-boats up to the 
rapids, one or two miles above Alexandria. In 
improving the navigation, the health of the 
country would be greatly improved, for those 
bayous conceal a great quantity of stagnant water, 
which renders it obnoxious to disease. The two 
above named, extend hundreds of miles, and the 
lands adjoining are vastly fertile. Cotton, which 
is the staple of this part of the state, grows to the 
greatest perfection. Chanyville village, lately 
built, is in this parish, about 30 miles distant from 
Alexandria. It promises to be a respectable town. 
Natchitoches (pronounced Nakitosh) is situated 
on Red river, about 60 miles above Alexandria, 
and not many miles from the Mexican settlements. 
It is principally inhabited by the French and 
3 



26 THE Jl AMBLER. 

Spaniards, containing a population of 1,000. It 
is more healthy than Alexandria. There are 
several salt springs here from which salt is made. 
Tobacco and indigo grow spontaneously in all 
parts of Louisiana. Nakitosh is not very far 
from the scene of bustle and carnage created by 
a party of jacobins, which I am told was composed 
principally of American miscreants, who had re- 
sorted to that country, in order to escape justice. 
They, with the Indians and a few natives, under- 
took to form a little republic. They named 
themselves the Fredonians, and called a congress, 
who made a formal declaration of Independence, 
absolving themselves from the government of 
Mexico. The Fredonians were successful in the 
commencement of their warfare, but soon found 
that Mexican powder was too strong for them to 
smell, they therefore quickly sued for peace. 
They are now probably convinced, that repub- 
lics are not to be constructed by banditti, who 
were compelled to flee from justice. If emi- 
grants to foreign countries find themselves op- 
pressed by their adopted rulers, and become dis- 
satisfied, it is a duty incumbent upon them, either 
to submit patiently, otherwise remove, for A- 
mericans at least are free, and go and come at: 
pleasure. If there is not room in other countries 
for their rumsoaked carcases, they will find this 
vast continent amply sufficient to hold them, 
and as many other topers, tunkers and huksters 
as they could bring. If they are without money, 
I would refer them to an anecdote of an officer. 
This anecdote, though obscene, is so strikingly 
illustrative, that I hope a repetition of it will not 
give offence. "An officer being cashiered for 
cowardice, commenced his journey homeward. 



THE RAMBLER. 27 

moneyless. He presently arrived at an Inn. The 
landlord, dazzled with the appearance of his suit 
of armour^ made splendid preparations for his en- 
tertaimcnt depending upon the liberality of the 
gentleman for compensation. The banquet being 
ready the host partook of it, and was merry with 
wine. He rose from the table, and after stretch- 
ing himself a little, addressed the landlord thus. 
••'Sir I suppose there is no ripping of guts here? 
The landlord taking the hint, replied" no but 

there is kicking of a " so saying he kicked 

this son of thunder out of the house. Rough 
treatment this truly, but such as we pennyless 
wanderers are subject to. A reptile,, peculiar to 
Mexico, is found in Nakatosh county, called the 
Centapede. It resembles very much a reptile vul- 
garly called "thousand legs" only much larger. 
It is composed of a crustaceous substance, and an 
infinite number of thongs resembling those of the 
animal above mentioned, which they use as wea- 
pons. They attach themselves to the object of 
their ievenge with these fangs, and inflict hun- 
dreds of poisonous wounds at once. The poison 
is said to be incurable. It is commonly about 4 
inches in length and If in breadth. The inhabi- 
tants on Red river have a very pleasant and healthy 
retreat from the intense heat of summer, and the 
humid atmosphere occasioned by the effluvia of 
the river, and swamps. I mean the pinewoods, 
which are on the mountainous order, and shaded 
by the luxurious growth of pine, which are very 
large, and afford a sufficient space between them 
for passing without interruption from limbs* 
Here is the best water, and a great variety of 
fish, deer, turkeys, ducks, &c. It is perhaps the 
finest grazing country in the west. One may 



28 THE RAMBLER/ 

spend the summer in ease and safety, enjoying 
all the pleasures of fishing, hunting, and bath- 
ing. 

In one of my excursions I discovered the joint 
snake, a very great curiosity. It is commonly 
about 3 feet in length, of a most beautiful variety 
of colours. A very slight blow with a whip, 
causes them to break into several pieces, without 
any appearance of blood. They are perfectly 
harmless. Rattle snakes, and others, are numer- 
ous. Alligators are very numerous in Red river, 
and the Mississippi. They are destructive to 
hogs, and other small animals that frequent the 
banks of the river. Their mode of killing their 
prey is to seize them with their mouths, and then 
thrash them with their tails until dead. They 
then feast upon the carcase at leisure. They are 
of various sizes, from 3 to 25 feet in length. 
Their colour on the back is a kind of rusty black, 
their bellies are of a whitish cast. In form they 
resemble a lizzard very much, having four awk- 
ward looking legs. 

The state of Louisiana is divided into parishes 
and counties. Each parish is represented in the 
legislature by two delegates elected by the peo- 
ple for two years, and one" senator. Each parish 
has also a judge, whose jurisdiction is confined 
to his parish and to civil cases. He is also the 
register of the parish. There is another judge 
whose jurisdiction extends to different parishes, 
according to the size of the county, as some coun- 
ties contain more parishes than others. He de- 
termines criminal cases and others of importance. 
There are also three supreme judges whose ju- 
risdiction extends throughout the state. They 
visit each parish once annually. There are like- 



THE RAMBLER,. 29 

v.ise justices of the peace who adjudicate ac- 
counts not exceeding 50 dollars. The sheriff of 
each parish is reco mm ended by a number of re- 
spectable citizens of his parish, to the governor, 
who puts him in nomination before the senate, 
and if it meet their approbation they appoint 
him for three years. This office in some parish- 
es is said to be worth $20,000 for the term. The 
climate is affected by a variety of causes, par- 
ticularly by the annual inundation of the Mis- 
sissippi and Red rivers. A number of lakes 
border those rivers, some of them having once 
been their channel, are more or less subject to 
stagnation. A marshy region winds along the 
whole length of the sea shore. To the above 
causes must be added the prevailing south winds. 
From this enumeration, the diseases of Louisiana 
can be easily deduced. They are intermittent, 
remittent, and billious fevers. In the higher 
parts of the state the climate is healthy. If the 
south winds are attended with humidity, it pro- 
duces weakness and debility. The sea coast is 
subject to hurricanes in the months of Septem- 
ber and October. North and northwest winds 
blow occasionally in March; spring commences 
in this month, and in April vegetation is very ra- 
pid. The summer heats commence in May, and 
continue to November. Rain falls plentifully in 
spring, and in torrents in October. The Catho- 
lic is the prevailing religion. 

I proceeded from Alexandria to New Orleans 
which is about 280 miles, and presents the most 
fascinating prospect the whole distance, that the 
imagination could conceive. The majestic ap- 
pearance of the Mississippi, the innumerable and 
beautiful villages, the luxuriance of vegetation, 
3"^ 



JO THE RAMBLER. 

sugar cane in particular, and the magnificent and 
splendid edifices all combined, create a lively re- 
trospective view of Babylon, Paradise and an- 
cient Alexandria. One is led irresistibly to de- 
plore that a country so blessed with the most mu- 
nificent effusions of nature, should by her be 
made the seat of corporeal desolation. New Or- 
leans is the principal town and the capital of the 
state. It is situated on the left bank of the Mis- 
sissippi, in north latitude 29° 57', and west lon- 
gitude from Washington 13° 9', from which it is 
distant about 1300 miles. The principal public 
buildings are the town-house, the hospital, the 
Cathedral of St. Louis, the Nunnery, the cus- 
tom house, the market house and government 
house. Besides these it contains an American and 
a French Theatre, a French college, an Epis- 
copal, two Presbyterian, and a Methodist church. 
Also several banks and insurance companies, and 
a garrison. It is 90 miles from the Bellisle 
Balize which forms the entrance of the Mississip- 
pi into the Gulf of Mexico. Its population is 
probably composed of some from every nation on 
the globe, amounting to about 30,000 permanent 
inhabitants. But during the busy season, (which 
is from February to June,) the population is much 
greater. New Orleans is the grand depot of the 
produce brought down the Mississippi and its 
various tributaries. In commercial importance 
therefore, this state is little inferior to some of 
its older sisters. The city is surrounded with 
lakes almost forming a complete island. The old 
part of the town which is called French-Town, 
is badly constructed, the most of the streets be- 
ing almost too narrow for two coaches to pass. 
This renders it more subject to sickness than it 



THE RAMBLER. 31 

would otherwise be. The new part, which is in- 
habited principally by American, Irish and En- 
glish emigrants, is much better constructed; the 
streets being spacious but badly paved as yet. 
The levee which is in front of the town, and run- 
ning with the river, serves both as a preventive 
from inundation, and as a landing place for ves- 
sels. It is a permanent construction of logs and 
earth, and presents a handsome view from the 
river. It is a substitute for wharves, which can- 
not be constructed on account of the great rise 
and fall of the river. Here all the commercial 
business of the city is centered, and creates a 
scene of confusion not excelled by a retreating 
army. The great variety of languages, sexes 
and forms, are truly interesting to a stranger. 
On the levee are temporary stands for pedlars, 
for which they pay license. No liquors are al- 
lowed to be retailed under a heavy penalty. 
Rum, sugar, molasses and indigo, are manufactur- 
ed in and near the city. The different fruits and 
garden vegetables are to be had all seasons of the 
year. Grapes, sweet oranges and figs, flourish. 
Fish and fowl of every kind are to be had in the 
greatest abundance. It is only two or three days 
sail from this city to Havana, which gives an op- 
portunity of enjoying all the luxuries of the 
West India Islands, without much trouble or ex- 
pense. It is very extraordinary that the banks 
of the Mississippi, as well as those of Red river, 
are much higher than the adjoining land; and as 
you recede from them the greater the descent is. 
This renders the levee indispensible, as the whole 
country would be inundated in time of high wa- 
ter, which is frequently 40 or 50 feet above low 
water mark. Indeed; it sometimes rises above 



32 THE RAMBLER. 

the levee, and then it has no entrance into the ri- 
ver again, hut makes its way to the ocean. This 
causes a great quantity of stagnant water. The 
levee extends on either side of the river from 
New Orleans nearly to Natchez. Between those 
two cities is tide water; this coming into contact 
with the rapid torrent descending from above, 
causes a convulsion which seems to threaten de- 
struction to all around. Above Natchez it is not 
so, for there is no tide water. In March and 
April there is an infinite number of steam and 
flat boats at New Orleans, which descend the 
Mississippi; also many ships and other vessels 
which come coastwise. The Yankees with their 
codfish and potatoes do well. The Kentuckians 
and Tennesseans with their bacon, cider, <fcc. also 
do well, in disposing of their stuff, but not so in 
disposing of their money; for the contrast be- 
tween the most refined cunning and the most per- 
fect rusticity, metamorphoses them into "would- 
be lords," particularly when they can show you 
a leather bag full of dollars. The poor devils 
think they have the world in their power. But 
they are very soon taught better things; when 
they recover from the trance into which the live- 
ly dust, and that arch rogue called rum, had led 
them., they find themselves deserted by both. I 
allude to those whose highest ambition is to be 
commander-in-chief of a float boat, and to drink 
General Jackson's health. When you meet a 
gentleman in the street who carries a florid com- 
plexion, is familiar, and loves to chat about 
horses, nine times out of ten you may mark him 
down as a Virginian. The Marylander, even 
though he be a mechanic, walks with all the pom- 
posity of a statesman. 



THE RAMBLER. 33 

In -New-Orleans and other southern cities, one 
may pass without meeting the sarcastic grins, and 
insinuating remarks of such as post themselves at 
corners in order to scrutinize the passers by. If 
they have any thing to say, they at least suffer 
the object of their ridicule or applause, to get 
out of hearing. If those idle loungers who in- 
fest some of oar petty towns, have any preten- 
sions to decency or common sense, they will 
readily conceive by a little reflection that they 
are far behind their southern brethren in this re- 
spect; and that the practice above alluded to is a 
mark of low breeding, a vacant mind and unbe- 
coming a gentleman. If they have ever read Ches- 
terfield, which some of them make a great splut- 
ter about, they surely cannot comprehend the 
English language simplified. And while they are 
indulging in wanton invectives against one who 
perhaps does not walk the pavement in the dan- 
dy style, or does not kiss his hand at every pup- 
py he may meet, they are heaping upon them- 
selves a far more odious epithet; impoliteness. 
They even go so far as to arraign one for enter- 
ing a tavern. The simpletons conclude at once 
that no one would go there at the hour of twelve, 
but for grog, and one glass is sufiicient to brand 
him with drunkard. Now, these would be wit- 
ty gentlemen are condemned by their own words, 
for the guilty arc always most ready to condemn 
in others, what they themselves' are guilty of. 
They must judge others by themselves, other- 
wise they judge wrongfully, for Omnipotence 
never endowed them with the power of search- 
ing the hearts of others. They should lean on 
the side of charity, and conclude, that if one is 
fallible he may yet be meritorious. Charity is 



34 THE RAMBLER. 

the sun that enlivens and cheers the abodes of 
men. It is like the dew of Hermon, and the dew 
that descended on the mountains of Zion, where 
the Lord commanded the blessing, even life for 
evermore. "A suspicious, untraceable temper 
is not only inconsistent with all social virtue and 
happiness, but it is also in itself unreasonable and 
unjust. In order to form sound opinions of cha- 
racters and actions, two thing are especially re- 
quisite, information and impartiality. But such 
as are most forward to decide unfavourably are 
commonly destitute of both. Instead ot possessing 
or even requiring full information, the grounds 
on which they proceed are frequently the most 
slight and frivolous. A tale perhaps which the 
idle have invented, the inquisitive have listened 
to, and the credulous have propagated; or a real 
incident which rumour, in carrying it along, ex- 
aggerated and disguised, supplies them with ma- 
terials of confident assertion, and decisive judg- 
ment. From an action they presently look into the 
heart, and infer the motive. This supposed mo- 
tive, they conclude to be the ruling principle; 
and pronounce at once concerning the whole 
character. Nothing can be more contrary to 
sound reasoning and equity, than this precipitate 
judgment. Any man who attends to what passes 
within himself, may easily discern what a com- 
plicated system the human character is; and what 
a variety of circumstt apes must be taken into ac- 
count, in order to esti] ate it truly. No single 
instance of conduct whatever, is sufficient to de- 
termine it. As from one worthy action, it were 
credulity, not charity, to conclude a person to 
be free from all vice; so from one which is cen- 
surable, it is perfectly unjust to infer, that the 



THE RAMBLER. 35 

author of it is without conscience, and without 
merit. If we knew all the attending circum- 
stances, it might appear in an excusable, nay per- 
haps under a commendable form. The motives 
of the actor may have been entirely different from 
those which we ascribe to him; and where we 
suppose him impelled by bad design, he may 
have been prompted by conscience, and mistaken 
principle. Admitting the action to have been 
m every view criminal, he may have been hur- 
ried into it through inadvertency and surprise. 
They may have sincerely repented; and the vir- 
tuous principle may now have regained its full 
vigour. Perhaps this was the corner of frailty; 
the quarter on which he lay open to the incur- 
sions of temptation; while the other avenues of 
his heart were firmly guarded by conscience. It 
is therefore evident that no part of the govern- 
ment of temper deserves attention more, than to 
keep our minds pure from uncharitable prejudices, 
and open to candour and humanity in judging of 
others. The worst consequences both to our- 
selves and to society, follow from the opposite 
spirit. There is probably no city in America 
whicn is better provided for by nature than Or- 
leans. It is impenetrable on all sides to foreign 
enemies, except on the south side, and that being 
the accessible point, it is natural to conclude that 
it is generally prepared for the reception of an 
enemy. There is no possible way of access, but 
at the point above mentioned, which is in front 
of the city. The water passage to the city is 
well defended by forts. And there being only 
one point at which a successful attack could be 
made by land, it of course requires no extraor- 
dinary capacity to conceive the propriety of 



36 THE RAMBLER. 

placing that into a state of defence. Now where 
there is every natural barrier to the progress of 
an enemy a little art is only necessary to render 
an incursion destructive in the extreme. This 
assertion was confirmed on the 8th of January 
1815. But as I am conscious of my incapacity 
of judging accurately in matters so remote from 
what I have been accustomed to, I leave it with 
those who are more proficient in the military art. 
Nevertheless I am confident in the opinion that 
one may be proficient in military affairs, and yet 
deficient in diplomacy. For although they may 
be partially connected, they are different branch- 
es. On the first of February 1827, I left Orleans 
for Baltimore, in the schooner Patriot, and after 
a passage of 21 days, arrived at the destined 
place. The atmosphere on the coast of America 
is delightful. It is naturally mild, and being 
tempered by the pure air of the sea, has a most 
pleasing effect both upon the mind and the body. 
But there is a very sudden change in the climate 
upon arriving off Cape Hatteras. And it grows 
perceptibly colder as you approach Cape Henry. 

ADDRESS TO YOUTHS. 
Gentlemen, 

Allow me for a moment to assume the digni- 
fied station of an adviser. Although I am young, 
yet I am persuaded that my experience will be 
a sufficient apology for the liberty I take in ad- 
dressing you. I wish to give you warning of the 
evil consequences which follow an indulgence of 
a wandering disposition; not that there is any in- 
herent criminality attached to it, but because it 
is like the use of ardent spirits; the more you in- 
dulge the greater is your propensity. And al- 



THE RAMBLER, 3? 

though it is not criminal in itself, a reverse of for- 
tune might lead to criminal acts. For the wan- 
derer knows not when he may find himself desti- 
tute of the necessary means of subsistence; and 
being a stranger every where, he cannot calculate 
to receive that hospitality from strangers, which 
he perhaps was once accustomed to. Chagrin- 
ed at the frowns and scoffs of a relentless world, 
he is tempted to do those things which he ought 
not to do, and it depends solely upon the state of 
his mind, whether he can resist this temptation 
or not. I do not mean to reprehend a laudable 
desire to better ones situation, for it seems to be 
almost indispensable that a young man, who as- 
pires to respectability in society, should make 
himself acquainted with the various customs of a 
certain portion of the world. It is necessary for 
him first to know the nature of his species, or in 
other words to understand human nature, before 
he can possibly be enabled to contend with that 
many headed serpent, persecution. But beware 
that you do not carry your laudable desire too 
far, for in so doing you might convert a blessing 
into a curse. When one has acquired a sufficien- 
cy of useful knowledge to make him a good citi- 
zen, he ought not indulge an inordinate desire af- 
ter more, but make the best of what he is in pos- 
session of, and be thankful to the Great Disposer 
of things temporal, and eternal. It is very com- 
mon for young men, when they set out in life, to 
cherish a belief that they are to pass through the 
vale of life without any obstruction to their youth- 
ful career. But alas! how soon are they dis- 
disappointed. In the midst of juvenile revelry, 
they are hurried into the vortex of sublunary 
woes, which they frequently neither know the 
4 



38 THE RAMBLER.' 

origin of, nor how to extricate themselves from." 
Then inasmuch as the best of us are not entirely 
exempt from the vicissitudes of life, it behoves us 
always to hold ourselves prepared to meet them. 
For they approach us as a thief in the night, and 
we scarcely know that we are in existence before 
we are involved in a train of difficulties. An in- 
fatuated idea of honour not unfrequently produces 
the most direful consequences. This demon holds 
out allurements to its votaries, who intoxicated 
with the love of it, grasp with an avaricious 
hand; but too soon alas! do they find it an asp, 
whose touch is poisonous in the extreme. It en- 
deavours to conceal its venom until its victim is 
overpowered by fascination, then it strikes the fa- 
tal blow, the blow which carries with it death 
and desolation. I wonder that our amatures of 
chivalry are not deterred by the many glaring 
examples of its deleterious effects. "FallstafPs 
soliloquy on honour" I think deserves a place 
here. "Owe heaven a death! 'Tis not due yet; 
and I would be loth to pay him before his day. 
What need I be so forward with him that calls 
not on me? Well, tis no matter — honour pricks 
me on. But how, if honour prick me off when I 
come on! How then! Can honour set to a leg? No; 
or an arm? No; or take away the grief of a wound? 
No; honour hath no skill in surgery, then? No. 
What is honour? A word. What is in that word? 
Honour. What is that honour? Air; a trim reck- 
oning. Who hath it? He that died a Wednesday. 
Doth he feel it? No. Doth he hear it? No. Is it in- 
sensible then? Yea to the dead. — But will it not 
live with the living? No. Why? Detraction will 
not suffer it. Therefore I'll none of it. Honour is a 
*iaere escutcheon — and so ends my catechism,^? 



THE RAMBLER. 39 

Party prejudices are among the great evils of 
the present day, and deserve the particular at- 
tention of young men. Many of them imbibe the 
political sentiments of their fathers, and cherish 
the belief that they must necessarily be right; at 
all events they adhere to them, right or wrong, 
without once appreciating the merits of the cause. 
Now the same precept which annuls old religious 
tenets, is applicable in political affairs. "Old 
things are done away, all things have become new." 
There was a time when aristocracy was necessa- 
ry, or at least assented to by all, but as the world 
grows in age, so it grows in wisdom; this has re- 
moved the sophistical and contracted doctrines 
of the dark ages. What once received public 
sanction now meets the most vindictive repro- 
bation. Whether or not deservedly I will not 
undertake to say, but the opinion of a great ma- 
jority certainly carries irresistible weight. One 
must, therefore, place his individual judgment 
in competition, as it were, with all the world, 
otherwise yield to them the palm of merit. How- 
ever^ the policy pursued by the two existing par- 
ties among us, deserves the greatest reprobation. 
It seems to be only necessary for a man who as- 
pires to office, to attach himself to some party. 
That party, without regard to merit, (unless they 
consider a strict adherence to a party meritori- 
ous,) support his pretensions merely because he 
is a federalist or a democrat. There is certainly 
no material difference between these parties, for 
they only differ in the means of advancing the 
cause of the people. It would be preposterous 
in the extreme to suppose that either could pre- 
fer any system of government to a republican, 
lifter enjoying its benign influence so long. Then 



40 THE RAMBLER. 

admitting the doctrine that men were never de- 
signed to think exactly alike, it is anti-republi- 
can and unjust to persecute a freeman for a tri- 
lling difference of opinion. A degree of opposi- 
tion is necessary for the well-being of republics, 
according to great writers; but that opposition 
ought to be followed with a single eye to the 
whole community, otherwise it only serves to in- 
crease incidental calamities. To obviate political 
difficulties, it is well to withdraw from all parties, 
for it is a course dictated by true patriotism, and 
unpolluted by the tergiversations of party ran- 
cour. It knows no law but the unchangeable 
law of justice. It is unbiassed by the hateful vo- 
ciferations of obstreperous demagogues; in a word, 
it is the summum bonum of genuine philanthropy. 
Being naturally inquisitive, I have taken some 
pains to inform myself as to the different denomi- 
nations of christians. I have mixed with all 
classes and sects, and to my utter astonishment 
and mortification, have found quite as much strife 
and contention among them as among political ri- 
vals. To come out from the wicked, is a favour- 
ite theme with a certain denomination. Their 
bigoted zeal for the advancement of what they 
call religion, prompts them to believe that none 
but themselves are righteous. How far they are 
justified, God only knows. I am confident, how- 
ever, in saying, that religion does not consist in 
boisterous railings against those who unfortunate- 
ly belong to other persuasions. Religion com- 
prehends many things, the most important of 
which, is charity. Next to the want of charity 
in all professions, but particularly among those 
above alluded to, presumption is a very common 
failing. I frequently hear them assert positively, 



THE RAMBLER, 41 

that such an one has gone to Heaven; that they 
themselves are certain of going there, &c. These 
are certainly very broad assertions for finite be- 
ings. If this be religion, then I am an infidel, 
for all the preachers in Christendom cannot jus- 
tify it to my satisfaction. I may appear some- 
what sceptical, but I cannot conceive that true 
religion belongs exclusively to any one professi- 
on. To believe that the righteous of all profes- 
sions will be saved, is a doctrine perfectly con- 
sonant with the Holy Scriptures. This doctrine 
I subscribe to, and no other. To enter into a 
general investigation of religious matters, I ac- 
knowledge myself incompetent, but hope my mo^ 
tives in touching upon the outlines as above, will 
be duly appreciated. For I appeal to the imma- 
culate God to witness that my intention is not to 
proscribe any denomination collectively, but to 
expose the most prominent rocks upon which they 
split. 

With these remarks I shall close my little book, 
by apologising for any expression relative to re- 
ligious, political, or any other matters, assuring my 
readers that the principle which has actuated me 
throughout; proceeds from conscientious motives. 



In the 14th line 4th page, of the preface, fo* 
"aim" read arm. 

Page 7, 16th line from bottom, for "Botte- 
court" read Bottetourt. 

Page 10, 6th line from bottom, for "or" read 
nor. 

Page 11, 3d line from bottom, for "he" read 
be. 

13th page, 17th line, for "Huntsille" read 
Hunt svi lie. 

Page 34 ; line 9, for: "thing" read things. 



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